ACRECO, Inc.
Arlington's Creative Construction
Call Us in DFW, Texas at (866) 930-0235 or (817) 860-0050 for
Home Remodeling & Additions
For ALL of your Construction & Remodeling NEEDS

Why Choose Us?
  • Cost Control Experts
  • References Available
  • Registered Contractors
  • Locally Owned & Operated  
  • In Arlington, Tx since 1993
  • Fully Insured
  • 24/7 Emergency Service

 

Services:
Home Contractor
Home Additions
 Roofing Contractor 
Bathroom Remodeling
Kitchen Remodeling
Commercial Contractor
Commercial Interiors
Commercial Painting 
Commercial Flooring

ADA Compliance

Consumer Tax Credits

 

Memberships:
* Better Business Bureau™  Accredited Business
* CCR (Central Contractor Registrations)
* NAHB (National Association of Home Builders)
* Registered Contractors (TRCC)Texas Residential Construction Commissions

Proudly Serving:
Dallas, Fort Worth and the entire DFW Metroplex
 This includes Dallas, Tarrant, Parker, Ellis
& Johnson Counties

Hours of Operation:
Monday - Friday,
8:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

Women-Based Enterprise, Minority-Owned Business

 

Payment Options:

Still under construction but enjoy what we have for now.  Check back with us periodically to get more info...

 

Floor Tiling -


TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST 

Tape Measure cost range from $4.00 to 30.00

 

Tile Cutter (non- power) cost range from $8.00 to 16.00 to

 

Or (Power) Tile Cutter cost ranges from $159.00 to 550.00

Tile Nippers: cost ranges from $12.00 to 18.00 ea
Glass Cutter: cost ranges from $4.00 to 7.00 ea
Rubbing stone: cost ranges from $9.00 to 11.00 ea

Combination Square:cost ranges from $8.00 to 180.00 ea
Framing Square: cost ranges from $23.00 to 36.00 ea
Notched Trowel: cost around $3.00 ea

Level: cost ranges from $10.00 to 50.00 ea
Hammer:cost ranges from $6.00 to 32.00 ea
Rubber Mallet:cost ranges from$4.00 to 18.00

Floor scrapper: cost ranges from $12.00 to 30.00 ea
Caulk Gun: cost ranges from (non-powered) range from $4.00 to (Powered) 119.00 ea
Caulk: Cost ranges from $1.50 to 4.00 ea

Chalk Line: cost ranges from $8.00 to 11.00 ea
Screwdriver: cost ranges from $6.00 to 11.00 ea
Putty knife: 2in size ranges from $4.50- 16.00 ea

Utility Knife: cost ranges between $1.00 to 20.00 ea
Battens- 1x2's or 1x3's wood planks: depending on length ranges from $2.50 to 5.00 ea
Prybar: cost $3.00 to 18.00 ea

rill: cost $30.00 to 300.00 ea
Flush cut saw: Cost $14.00 to 16.00
OR Powered Flush Cut Saw:

cost $170.00

Tile:12 x 12 tile Avg cost ranges from $2.50 ea

Spacers: Avg cost  $5.00 a bag
Mastic:  Avg cost  $11.00 a gallon

Underlayment or Backer Board Backing: Avg cost $15.00 ea
  • for the tile floor may consist of exterior grade heel-proof plywood, lauan underlayment panel, mortar based backer board, or exterior plywood underlayment. It should be at least 11/4" thick over a minimum of 16" on center floor joists. Otherwise a "flex" can cause tile to pop out of place.
Proper Nails for Underlayment : Use coated or ring-shanked nails Avg cost  $55.00 a box

Grout: Avg cost $14.00 ea bag
Grout Sealer: Avg cost $11.00 per quart
Grout Fortifier: Avg cost  $12.00 per 16 oz

Before you start

Items Needed: Power Flush Saw, hammer and prybar.

  1. Clear away anything that will get in the way or get wet like rugs, towels, glass bathroom shelves, and other accessories.
  2. As for any cabinetry in place, it's generally easier to tile the whole floor surface rather than having to cut and fit around it, but you may decide in your particular situation to work around the cabinetry.
  3. It's important to cover any drains that are in close proximity to the job with some tape so that debris won't fall down the drain and cause it to clog. For a sink, also line it with cardboard so as not to scratch it.
  4. Remove the baseboards as well as door trims by using a pry bar. Be careful not to damage the walls as you do this.
  5. When installing tile to the floor you will most likely be increasing the height of the floor where it will be necessary to cut the bottom of the door. Trim door casings with a flush-cut saw so tile can slip underneath. Cut with saw held flat against a tile on top of a piece of cardboard (to represent the thickness of the thinset).

 

Remove the toilet. Don't ever tile around a toilet while it's in place. First, turn off the supply valve to the toilet. Then flush the toilet to drain off the water in the basin. Next, pull the little white caps at the base of the toilet off and with a small wrench undo the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. Get some help to gently lift the toilet off the wax drain ring and put it aside on old newspapers and rags to soak up any excess water drops. Will require a new drain ring when placing the toilet back.

PREPARING THE BASE FLOOR

Items Needed: Backer board, shank nail and floor scraper.

  • Start by removing all wax, grease or oil with a good, environmentally safe chemical or cleaner. Remember that adhesives will not adhere where oil or grease is a part of the base.
  • Next, plane down high spots and re-nail any loose boards on wood floors. Any rough spots will gradually show through the floor tiles and may ruin the appearance.
  • If the original floor is in poor condition, it may be necessary to cover it with sturdy plywood or un-tempered hardboard.

When laying a new floor, nail every 4" along the edge and 4" apart in all directions. Stagger the panels so you don't have four corners together. Start in the center of the panel and work toward the edges. Use coated or ring-shanked nails, and be sure heads of the nails are even with board level.